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Hotels with orchard, agrohipsters hotels

It is the dream of every urban of the second decade of the twentieth century. We all fantasize about pulling a tomato from its bush, washing it, opening it on a raw wooden table, dressing it and eating it. And tell it. Fantasy can be sophisticated. We imagine all that, but in a hotel.

So we are facing a dream hipster very exciting The idea of ​​having dinner one night vegetables that have been picked up in the hotel's own garden It touches the climax of contemporary luxury, that which even the word luxury is tacky.

The truth (separate mini-sarcasm) is that the orchards in the hotels are a point in their favor. They satisfy our longing for the field, suggest health and sensitivity and provide storytelling. It is logical that country and city hotels, especially cities, strive to plant an organic garden. Or biological Or echo.

The terminology is confusing, but the producer of a Segovia orchard that sells its products in Madrid (La Tienda Ecológica, Apodaca, 3) got me out of doubt. "In Europe there are three synonymous denominations," he said as he gave me a taste of cherries. And he kept telling me. “Organic gardens are based on the fertility of sleep. The more fertile, the stronger the plant and the better the fruit. Also in the variety, because thus the ecosystem is more stable ”. Learned the theory I went for a walk in organic orchards, or bio or eco hotels around the world. I was hungry along the way and wanted to stain my hands.

An orchard in a hotel is not a fad, understanding as such something that is repeated or something with the possibility of disappearing. It is a declaration of intent, "I care about manual work, I take care of those who sleep in my house, I take care of the sensations."

There are many examples of orchards in hotels. They serve to nourish the restaurant or bar, as in La Mamounia. The cocktails prepared in their bar use herbs from their 1,500 square meter garden. Sometimes it is the cooks who keep it and others involve the customers. In fact there are hotels, like the Gran Hotel Costa Adeje, which involves children in their care.

The most media cases are those of orchards in the hotels in the city center. The New York's Soho Grand It is exemplary in its proposal. In it they are cultivated different types of herbs, carrots, lettuce, green beans ... a varied ecosystem (theory fulfilled) in a terrace of Soho that is used in the kitchens of the hotel and, therefore, enjoy its stylish customers. Also on the 12th floor of a Manhattan building is the Crosby Hotel Garden. It is taken care of by chef Anthony Paris, which also takes care of the four Araucan hens that "stay" there and give away pale blue eggs. Butt agrosnobism. I want to eat them.

Orchards are more common in rural surroundings. In MonteverdiIn Tuscany, Paolo Coluccio, the cook has the supermarket nearby, a few meters away. The dinner arugula is collected in next to the restaurant tables. And this is literal, Paolo misses a moment of cooking and returns with the purchase resolved. Something similar happens in Manor House, in the Cotswold. This mansion-hotel hides a restaurant with a Michelin star that draws on what is grown in its own garden. Also in England is Swinton park, which grows 60 varieties for its cuisine. Guests are invited to participate in the collection.

Paolo Coluccio, at the Monteverdi Hotel © Monteverdi

In Spain, a good example is that of La Residencia, in Mallorca. Your restaurant El Olivo He always had his own garden, but in 2010, the hotel increased the land dedicated to planting herbs and vegetables. This garden, in summer, is in its splendor and is a display of Mediterranean species. It also has a Orchard of fruit trees that supply the kitchens and fill the jars of jam. Luxury appropriated years ago the idea of ​​the garden itself and added it to its catalog of values. Alila Manggis, in Bali has one, also, with spectacular views.

And we could go on, because more and more examples of this kind in Spain and abroad, small or large, more attached to classic luxury or more to the hip sphere. Eat fruit that has not traveled half-frozen and hormone-rich world to reach the table It is a delicacy that, of course, we deserve. It is not posturing.

The garden of Alila Manggis, in Bali © Alila Manggis

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