Madrid: vermouth calling
No. It is not a phrase made. We are not going out of reeds, or flat ones, or wines ... we are going to have a vermouth Tap And, incidentally, we chop some tapas of a lifetime: some gildas, some eggplants from Almagro or some olivitas.
But what exactly is vermouth? Is about a fortified wine to which herbs are added (each teacher has his booklet), neutral alcohol and sugar, and that has its roots in France, Italy and Spain (the most famous is that of Reus, in Tarragona). It is usually served accompanied by a slice of orange (if it is red) or lemon (if it is white) and, often, with a little seltz water (the soda of a lifetime).
Although it is a very traditional tradition, Two paradoxes accompany him: he is often relegated at snack time and not in all bars in Madrid they serve him outside industrial bottling. With tiles, octopus and brave plates painted in glass, or with low armchairs and retro martini glasses: these are some (there are more) of the places to have a good vermouth in the capital.
THOSE OF STICK ON THE BAR AND NAPKIN ON THE FLOOR
1) Ángel Sierra Wineries (Gravina, 11). In the center of the heart, in the heart of Chueca, these wineries, created by the aforementioned in 1908, are always bursting. One of the reasons for its success is its tap vermouth, which is taken next to an old clock, beveled mirrors, the tin bar and the old bottles, ... and, in summer, also on its terrace. Outside, with some olives worth 2.5 E.
2) La Ardosa (Columbus, 13). It is his potato tortilla (runner-up of Spain this year) that makes many go to this tavern for the first time with the name of Toledo wine lands but, after tasting their tap vermouth, which appears in its original decoration, the "Blame" are distributed. His aesthetic brings us back to 1892, the year it was created, with its barrels and dusty jars, and its reproductions of Goya engravings or football posters. They offer tap vermouth (Zecchini) with anchovies from Castrourdiales for 3 euros. Only the glass is worth 1.65 euros (1.85 in the afternoon). Its foreign beers and the Guiness drinkers' championships that were made until 1992 are famous. In addition, it has the 00 record of some Spanish beers.
Taberna Ardosa, a classic from Madrid © Taberna Ardosa
3) Camacho House (San Andres Street, 4). The noise of plates and glasses is the first thing that is perceived in this place that three brothers run in the old neighborhood of Maravillas (today Malasaña), opened in 1929. A vermouth (alone or with a siphon) with a plate of olives or skewers Chorizo among old jars is the delicacy that we come to enjoy, as do neighbors of the neighborhood of a lifetime, tourists who pass by and stay hypnotized or modern who obviously claim their superlative castizo. Almagro eggplants and gherkins with anchovy for those who stay hungry. Two obligations: You have to go to the bathroom (you have to go to the backstage behind the bar) and ask for a yayo, the star creation of the house: cocktail with homemade, gin and vermouth. Be careful, the posters make it clear: singing and dancing are forbidden.
4) Carmencita (Freedom, 16). After going through some stage of experiments that it is better to forget, the mythical Carmencita, which belonged to Pepín and Carmencita López Gardoqui, has regained its aspect of yesteryear: red wooden facade, as the taverns of the nineteenth century used to decorate, and interior tile. His is an artisan vermouth made in Tarragona that is served in a martini glass. It combines perfectly with its rabas, with a light and flawless batter, and served in dishes like grandmother's house.
5) Rosell Wineries (Gral. Lacy, 14; 914 67 84 58). Güiris clueless, young couples, faithful parishioners who come daily for decades ... The fact that it is so close to Atocha, makes the clientele is the most heterogeneous. In a drawing of its centennial facade (they go for the fourth generation), we are already anticipating what awaits us inside: a very decked lady next to the phrase: "Exquisite vermouth". Specifically it is about Izaguirre tap vermouth, which is always served in a cane glass with two ice stones, a cherry and a piece of orange. To the summer red also add a droplet (unless the client asks otherwise) and a little siphon. The price, 1.60 euros, entitles you to cover: Potatoes with mussels or cod are two of the most common. When ordering something more consistent you have to opt for their specialties: the cod brandade, the croquettes or the hedgehog caviar scramble. It is worth noting all the details of its decoration. His tiles, from Talavera, were made by the same craftsman who made those of the Plaza de Toros de las Ventas.
Rosell Wineries: Izaguirre tap vermouth, a cherry and a piece of orange © Bodegas Rosell
6) Ricla Wineries (Knives, 6). In honor of the town of the owners, of Aragon, these wineries were baptized where one of the best tap vermouth in Madrid (again, Izaguirre) is served. get in great, with some olives, some cheese, or a anchovy (1.60 euros), courtesy of the house. If there is hunger: jerky, cod or corns.
7) Lhardy (Carrera San Jerónimo). There is no more mythical place in Madrid that brings together more stories than this. He has been waging war since it opened in 1839, when he began to attract all kinds of characters. Until today. Through him they have passed from Alfonso XII to Rivera's cousin, and it has been a place of political conciliators, bullfighting and literary gatherings, tributes sui generis and outlandish celebrations. Its rancid appearance, with its wooden façade and semigotic letters has a lot of charm, as well as its multiple rooms where it seems that Valle Inclán can appear at any time. Must try its star cocktail: the half combination, made with gin, vermouth, angostura and lemon peel (2.50 euros) That husband, better than anything else, with a kidney boat (€ 1.40) or a ham croquette. Here the vermouth It is not a tap, but a reserve of Martínez la Cuesta.
OF THE COCKTAIL AND OLIVE
1) Le Cabrera. We recommend this cocktail bar again, because its owner, Diego Cabrera, in addition to being our coketail guru, plays with this drink to offer us impeccable drinks. In addition to the classics: Manhattan or Dry Martini, we propose the Tanguero, who makes good equipment with the lime sardines of the gastro.
2) Santa Maria: with a more hipster touch, in this cocktail bar in the Triball neighborhood (where by the way, a vermouth route is scheduled throughout the month of June for its most emblematic places) you have to try the Diplomat, a combined vermouth-based, tonic, a lemon twist and two drops of gin. To break the myth that vermouth is an old fashioned drink and that it is only drunk at noon.
- World vermouth atlas
- Barcelona: one of vermouth and tapas
A traditional tradition © Carmencita